Quaker
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Some Advantages
- Playful
- Packed with personality
- Very sociable
- Good speaking ability
Some Challenges
- Can be territorial
- Can be nippy
- Loud
- Illegal in some states
Size
11 to 12 inches
Weight
90 to 120 grams
Colors
The normal green Quaker is primarily a brilliant green, with a gray forehead, face and chest. The various color mutations result in shades of blue, light green and yellow.
Life Expectancy
Genetics and diet play a strong role in the longevity of a bird. Quakers can live up to 35 years.
These birds are gregarious and gutsy. Quaker owners and breeders will tell you that t he quaker has more personality than almost any other similar-sized and priced bird. The normal green quaker is very affordable because it is a prolific breeder and therefore common in aviculture. The eye-catching color mutations, on the other hand, can vary greatly in price depending on their rarity.
History and Origin:
The quaker was once native, but is now bred in captivity and is commonly available as a pet. The quaker is very affordable because it is a prolific breeder and therefore common in aviculture. It is also known as the monk parakeet, due it genus species name, Myiopsitta monachus.
General Information:
Quakers are energetic little clowns and a joy as a pet, and they easily become members of the family. But even with their strong personalities and striking colors, Quakers are probably known best for their status as outlaws.Because laws can change, be sure to check with your own state’s fish and wildlife office before you decide to buy a quaker. Some state governments believe that groups of feral quakers have the potential to be agricultural pests, while pet quaker owners will argue that a hand-fed quaker released into the wild would have little chance of survival. Wild quakers seem to prefer to live in cities and suburbs, where the best-stocked bird feeders are.
Quakers are happy, playful, packed with personality, and very sociable, but they tend to be a bit territorial about their cages. In the wild, quakers build “condo-style” nests—a series of many attached nests with entries just inches away from one another that must be defended. Many pet owners compensate for this by just opening the cage door and allowing the quaker to come out on its own. Once it’s out of the cage, the territoriality disappears and they are tame. You may want to attach a platform, playgym or a perch to the outside of the cage where the quaker can go to signal it is ready to be picked up.
You will also want to have a separate play area away from the cage to avoid disputes while you clean the cage or change the food and water. Another option for working around the quaker’s territorial tendencies is to buy a larger cage than normal, leaving room for a “safety zone,” like a hut- or teepee-style nesting cavity. The typical cage for this 11- to 12-inch bird should be 18 by 18 by 24 inches, much like one you would select for a cockatiel, although something larger will always be better to allow room for multiple perches, toys and a bathing dish. If you do select a larger cage, be sure the bar spacing isn’t large enough for you quaker to stick its head through (no bigger than 5/8 or 3/4 of an inch).
Another cage consideration is the quaker’s curiosity. They can watch you open their cage door and decide, “Hey, that’s not so hard. I can do that!” Then you find them proudly sitting on top of their own cages. Quakers need cages that have some sort of latching mechanism on the doors, even the food and water dish doors.
Place the cage where the quaker can be part of the action. And when the family isn’t around, leather strips and willow branches will keep a quaker occupied for hours. Wooden, rawhide, and “educational” toys will also do the trick.
Longtime quaker owners will tell you t here is no better talking small bird than the quaker. Even the worst talkers usually learn a few phrases, and the best can be truly spectacular talkers, sometimes learning fifty or more words. They may even use words in context, and especially if it is to tell you what they want. However, their speech is not as clear as a human voice.
As with any parrot with a penchant for speech, Quakers can be loud. They don’t scream like cockatoos or macaws, but they are definitely not quiet birds. Their speech can be repetitive, so Quaker owners need to be considerate of housemates who may not be as forgiving. Quakers can be especially loud if they are not getting the attention they crave.
Health:
Some breeders have reported fatty liver disease and low calcium levels in their quakers, so a healthful diet is especially important. A pellet for mid-sized parrots should be the base of the diet (about 90 percent), then enhanced with greens, orange and green vegetables, some fruit, cooked pasta mixes for variety, and low-fat seed.
The Ideal Owner:
Quakers raised to be social (with hand-feeding, hands-on time and plenty of positive attention) will enjoy being handled by their owners. If you are considering becoming a quaker owner, find a quaker breeder or pet store that has spent time handling, talking to and petting their chicks. These are the birds that grow into trusting, people-loving, members of the family.
Quakers will remain tame if their owners are sure to provide them with ample attention each day. And because Quakers are so smart, they will test their owners. Experienced breeders say that y ou need to maintain a parent-child relationship with your quaker, because once you flunk a few of its tests, it begins to think its in charge. This can result in biting. As long as you remain in charge though, this isn’t a problem.
Quakers are not recommended for those with a low tolerance for noise or those who live in close quarters (like an apartment or townhouse).